Shellfish is a gift to hot weather cooks. In its purest form—raw—it requires no cooking at all, and platters of icy, briny shellfish have special appeal when appetites are in a heat-induced torpor.

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The old Pemco ads called “Goosebumped Beach Bum” Northwest Profile #38, noting the thin line between “Hey, the sun might come out,” and “Hey, that might be frostbite.” But it takes an extra-special ...