He ventured into the grand Hamidiyeh Souk in old Damascus until he arrived at the renowned Bakdash ice cream parlour, then ordered a large scoop of their signature mastic-infused Arabic gelato.

Damascus Governorate, SYRIA — The central alley souk in Arbin, a neighborhood in the Damascus suburb of Eastern Ghouta, is bustling with people. Among the ruined buildings, vendors have set up ...